One thing should be quite clear, one must book a table before hand, if a table has not been booked in advance then it is more or less impossible to get a table. Don't even try; you will probably have to stay on your boat hungry with the lovely smell of Paella passing in front of your nose and your mouth drooling at the thought of having a plateful yourself.
Larger ships are not able to dock at the piers available because the water around the restaurant is between 0,30 m and 2,50 m deep. It's no problem if you don't have your own dinghy, the founder of the Xiringuito "La Costa", Alejandro Samver Torta, will come personally with his Taxi boat and pick you up, a phone call is enough!
The location is sensational, and one is very impressed on arriving there. A large number of staff is available to take care of your needs; they are always very nice, patient and friendly, even when it is very full.
The Xiringuito "La Costa" is renowned for its marvellous Paella, therefore being not only popular amongst Spaniards. The rice for the Paella comes from where other than the rice producing region of the Ebro Delta. We have tested the Paella many times (enjoyed would be the better way of saying it) and it really does taste fantastic! Apart from fish and mussel specialities, the menu also offers various meat dishes and salads as well as homemade desserts.
One sits pretty rustically on wooden benches at huge tables, and it doesn't bother anyone if kids park themselves nearby together with their small buckets containing fish that they have caught. Just like all over Spain, it's not that quiet, this is compensated by the wonderful view of the Ebro Delta with all the yachts lying at anchor and the mountains in the background. It's such a nice atmosphere that during the first visit one already knows that it won't be long before the second visit is planned. Those who prefer cushioned seating should bring a cushion along with them from home, we don't miss them but one shouldn't compare it with a typical normal restaurant, because one also sits here in the obvious bathing clothing, which doesn't disturb anyone at all.
The founder of the Xiringuito, Alejandro Samver Torta , who opened the Restaurant 50 years ago can still be met there. Sometimes he is seen running around with tools making quick repairs, or as already mentioned, he is personally picking guests up from their ships with is Taxi Boat after being phoned up. Sometimes he personally welcomes guests who arrive in their own dinghies. The cooking and serving of guests is left to the younger staff, but now and again he visits a table and tells the odd story.
The new owner Andres Carbo Lavafons took over the Xiringuito a few years ago and enlarged, whereby the "work rooms" were not allowed to be enlarged. Working conditions during the summer heat are more than troublesome in the kitchen, one must have great admiration for the performances of the kitchen staff. The kitchen is always open and can always be viewed. It's amazing how everyone always manages to organise things and at the same time remain cheerful.
Via numerous bridge connections it is possible to get to various small wooden houses. The toilets are in one of them, in another the electricity generator which runs 24 hours a day, but cannot be heard in the restaurant. A further hut with an open shutter is "only" used for washing up the dishes etc.
For those who would like to take a quick Siesta there are sun-loungers around the corner. Via a further bridge with wooden steps one is able to get down to the water and paddle over (with the use of bathing shoes, recommended because of the Sea Urchins) to the nearby shore for a walk.
The Xiringuito opens each year in the middle of June and is open depending on the weather until the end of Oktober. The daily opening hours are from 10:00 hrs until 18:00 hrs and in August also on Saturday evenings from 21:00 hrs until 23:00 hrs.
Next year in 2007, it will be open in August during the evening on a daily basis. Because a table has to be booked anyway, it is better to ask about the opening times once again.
Table bookings in Spanish, 3-4 days in advance, can be made. under the
Telephone number: 616 635 541. www.XiringuitoDeLaCosta.com
For all of those who are sad because they don't own a boat, we will tell you now, there is a small catamaran, a „Golondrina", in the St. Clarles de la Rapitá harbour that, on a daily basis during the Xiringuito "La Costa" opening hours, take you across in summer in the morning at 11:00 hrs and naturally pick you up again.
All in all a wonderful day trip which is well worth it and will never be forgotten by you; your family or your friends
Text & Photos : Sonja Oelgart
Translation: Mark Levy
puplished also in the magazine
Los Caminos / September 2006)
© copyright by S. Oelgart
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